Spring Awakening Postponed

There are still decisions to be made (beyond my involvement), but what is certain is that Spring Awakening has been postponed.   For now I'm going to bag it all up neatly until it's time to move forward again.  With the extra time on my hands I've resumed orders for Columbia's Closet (Rocky Horror costumes only).  Then it will finally be my favorite time of year again: Dickens on the Strand!

5+ weeks to opening

Wendla, Act I

The fun part about this production is connecting 1891 to 2011.   The difficult part of this production is  connecting 1891 to 2011.  Some things I'm decidedly set on, and some things I'm still mulling over.  I know I want to keep the lines (and fabrics) simple - nothing frilly or busy looking.  I want the children to have a somewhat earthy, but diverse color palette and  the adults to be grayed out.  The Adult Man and Adult Woman play multiple roles because from the  kids repressed perspective all adults are pretty much the same- kind of reminds me of the adults in The Peanuts ("wah wah wah wah").

Then there's the inner voice of the kids- the Rock.  This is where I need to create some contrast and bring them into the 21st century, but I don't want it to become predictable and overdone in every song.   It pretty much has to be done on stage - no full costume changes, only what can be done on the spot.

I've started purchasing shoes, knee socks and some fabric so far.  Also cut  out some of  the underthings for  the girls.  Can't say any more there - spoilers!  The promotional photo shoot will be sometime next week so I'll be focusing on something for the leads to wear this week.

Back & Binding for my Sugar Pop Log Cabin Quilt (WIP)

A couple months ago I got around to picking out the back and binding fabrics and only just recently got around to putting them on the quilt. Still have to finish the binding, but here's a photo of my progress.  

1893 Delineator (Misses Fashions)

I found the July 1893 Delineator catalog for $10 on eBay and it has 13 pages of girls/misses fashions.  These vintage magazines and catalogs are an addictive collection.  The Delineator was created by the Butterick Pattern Company in 1873 to spread fashion news and sell their patterns.  Click on images for larger version, but be warned they are quite large.

More Fashions From Demorest's (1894)

Continuing to research young womens late Victorian fashions, here are 3 youth styles from the July 1894 issue of Demorest's Family Magazine -

Kinloss Dress
All the serviceable washable fabrics, as well as light-weight serges and flannels, are suitable for this convenient and simple frock, - the "Kinloss," - and the regulation sailor-gown can also be made by the pattern.  For the latter [not pictured], white duck is being used, made up with collars and cuffs and wide borders on the skirts, of dark blue linen or denim.  Linens and galateas are also commended to be made in the same fashion.  There is a fitted lining to the blouse, which, without confining the child, holds the garment in place and retains the trig and becoming lines.  A leather or ribbon belt or one of the gown stuff can be worn, and for extra occasions a ribbon sash will make it dressier.


Elvery Waist
A charming little waist, to be made either of fancy materials to wear with any skirt, or of the gown fabric, The outside is box-plaited and then gathered to a fitted lining, and the waist yoke is covered by one of lace or velvet which is made separately and may be worn with different waists.  It makes a pretty variety to have several yokes mounted to becoming stocks of different colors.  The pattern is the "Elvery."

Northcote Blazer and Circle Skirt
This pretty cheviot gown is a very useful style, suited to everyday wear the year round, and any young girl could travel around the world in it and feel herself suitably and becomingly attired.  The convenient blazer makes it easy to vary the warmth by shirt waists, blouses, or waistcoats of varying weight to suit it to all temperatures. The skirt of this gown is the "Circle," illustrated and described in Demorest's for August, 1893. The blazer - the "Northcote" - is fitted with the usual seams, and has sufficient fullness in the back without the inconvenient exaggeration which marked the early spring styles. The fullness of the blouse front is shirred becomingly in the form of a shallow yoke below the stock collar.  Low shoes of tan or brown ooze calf and gaiters matching the gown in shape complete the suit.

Irmine Dress (May 1894)
This Charmingly simple gown for a young girl is commended for all light-weight woolens and cotton fabrics. As illustrated is is of pink-and-black cotton crepon. The skirt is slightly gored, and finished with a simple hem; the corsage is fulled both back and front over a fitted lining, and the bertha surrounds the shoulders. Afternoon gowns of challie and Indis silk would be very pretty made by this model, and could be rendered quite drerssy with trimming of ribbon and lace.

Demorest's Family Magazine

I don't know how I managed to miss this over the years, but I'm in love with Demorest's Family Magazine from the 19th century.  Interesting history, too - Mr. Demorest's wife, Ellen, mass produced paper patterns from the 1860s through the 1890s.  But her failure to patent her patterns opened the door for Ebenzer Butterick to create his pattern empire which is still thriving today.

In my research for Spring Awakening I found two precious dresses in the December 1890 issue of Demorest's -

The Corrie Dress
A waist with a surplice effect back and front, and a skirt, the upper part of which is shirred to form a belt, compose this dress, which is quite elaborate in effect but simple to arrange.  The front view shows it made in striped and figured foulard, trimmed with lace, and the standing collar omitted, making a pretty dancing-school dress...  If a very plain dress be desired, the full parts of the waist and sleeves can be omitted, also the upper shirred part of the skirt.


The Maida Dress
A model that can be appropriately made in simple or expensive materials.  The illustration shows dark red flannel with cream-colored polka-dots, with the chemisette, collar, and lower parts of t he sleeves of plain red flannel braided with cream-colored soutache.  Black velvet ribbon edges the full skirt, and is used for a soft belt which has a rosette bow in the middle of the back, and another at the left side.  The waist is full in the middle of the back.  For dressy use, this could be very effectively made in cashmere or India silk, with gilt or silver embroidery or braiding.

Spring Awakening (research)

I'm excited to be designing costumes for an upcoming production of Spring Awakening for the inaugural season of Aeon Theatrix in Houston.  Auditions are in 2 weeks, so in the meantime I'm just collecting research.  It's a rock musical set in 1891 Germany.  11 teenagers and 2 adults.  It's actually proving difficult finding resources on adolescent fashions of that era (little kids and adults are no problem!)

Wendla's Stockings

A website on Historical Boys Clothing provided some detailed information about boys suits with knee pants being worn up to about 15 years old. Non-functioning buttons at the knees, and stiff collars for older boys.  Also talked about shorter hair styles.  I'm also going to need a few pairs of cotton above-the-knee socks for boys.  I'm knitting a pair of socks for the female lead, Wendla.  I thought it might be neat to create a piece for each production I work on.

I also ordered an 1891 annual collection of Harper's Monthly Magazine (European edition) off eBay.  Really that one was just an excuse to add to my collection!  But I'm hoping to discover some useful costume plates, too.  Fortunately there's an abundance of photos on Flickr and eBay from that era.  I'd like to research more on the history of Trachts next.

Consew Serger

My "new" serger is up and running. Found it on Craigslist and had to drive out to Magnolia to pick it up - which is funny because that's where I had to pick up my Consew 2200 straight stitch that I found on Craigslist 6 years ago! Apparently there is a wealth of industrial sewing equipment to be found out there. Or maybe I have it all now. Anyhow, this pretty much completes my machine wish list.
The old one? Well, it wasn't feeling so well so I put it out of its misery. With a hammer.

Bed Racing Frame

I found an antique bed frame to use for the Dickens Bed Racing event this year (December). It needs to be sanded down and painted, but it's in otherwise fine condition. It will be mounted on larger wheels and I plan on making a black & white checkerboard quilt for it.

Barkley's Dog Bone Quilt

I made this about 3 years ago, but realized I hadn't blogged it here yet. It's permanently placed on Barkley's end of the couch and he's very familiar with "go lay on your blanket." It was just a pattern that I made up - using all "dog" print fabrics that I collected from various fabric stores.

My pattern is available for free if you'd like to make this quilt yourself - it has 49 squares made up of 18 pieces each for a total of 882 pieces not including the border, binding and backing.

Log Cabin Top

Got the top done - ready to pick out a backing and binding. Too bad it's going to have to wait because it sure would be nice to cozy up in with this wicked weather! I'll probably drive up to Spring next week and check out what GRS Creations has - since this was a Moda series.

Project Bag (Photo Bomb)

I made some more project bags for my knitting stuffs and Mommy's Little Helper was curious and jumped into my shot. Not crazy about her being on my antique secretary - or my yarn - but she's so darn cute. The project bags are made from 2 coordinating fat quarters (18" x 22") and some fusible fleece on the back of the print - helps the bag hold it's shape better.

Black Cat Jacket

I am a huge fan of Urban Threads and this design was such a cutie. I embroidered it on the back of a denim jacket I found neglected in the back of the closet. I was curious how well I could hoop denim, and how well my machine would stitch on it.

Sugar Pop Log Cabin

Started piecing a new quilt using the Sugar Pop Jelly Roll (by Moda). I'm loving the colors. This will actually be my first log cabin / strip quilt. Next is the sashing, then I'll be machine quilting it. I have 30 squares that are 10-1/2" - so in a 5 x 6 arrangement with the sashing and borders added it will be about 64-1/2 x 77 (large lap quilt?)

Cottage Bonnet

This was a lot of fun to make.  I used heavy-weight buckram (from Southern Importers), some orange velvet I had on hand, and some silk for the lining.  The lace inside was also a remnant.  I bought the flowers on clearance at Michael's for 99¢.

This is most commonly referred to as a Cottage Bonnet and was popular through the 1840s - perfect for Dickens and Brontë -era costumes, but too early for Civil War reenactments.

I cut out the frame in buckram then I went around the front edge with 20 gauge craft wire - using a zig-zag stitch on my machine real slowly. 

I did the same with the circular piece in the end - except it had a seam allowance to account for.  I notched the seam allowance and fit the end up inside the frame - now it looked like a hat!

I covered the end first, trimmed the excess fabric off, and then laid down the main part.  Spray glue is AWESOME.  I have no idea how people make hats without glue.

I folded all the edges over, clipping the curves and securing with glue.  This will all be concealed by the trim and lining.  I trimmed the front edge with some cording I picked up on Harwin for $1, then I stitched the lining in by hand - tiny stitches right into the cord along the edge.

There's also a back ruffle around the nape of the neck made from the silk lining, and a coordinating ribbon that runs across the top of the hat.